How to make a full face mask (blackout mask)

This is a tutorial for a skin tight stocking type face mask, with as much visibility as you like. if you enjoy this post, please leave a like, so that I know what types of posts are doing well! Thanks!


– stretchy see-thru fabric (I used stretch velvet, but it is difficult to see thru. I sacrificed personal bruises in order to have maximal light-sucking effect)

– sewing machine (or surger, though I’ll tell you how to do it without one)

– thread, scissors, measuring tape (the flexible kind that is used for sewing because you need to wrap it around your head)

– A beanie, for template purposes

Before you begin:

This is a super easy project and depending on your sewing ability, will be super fast. First, make sure your fabric is clean and smooth. Depending on what kind you use, you can possibly iron it. Use a pillow case or cheese cloth to protect the fabric from scorching on the iron, or just steam the fabric by using a steamer or hanging it in the bathroom while you shower (best for lightweight fabrics) Make sure you measure and cut on a flat, clean surface.

The primary stich used in this is a zig zag stich in a rollover style. What do I mean, well, it is possible to get a rollover stitch (that only a four-spool surger can do) just by a creative use of your standard zig zag stitch. Here’s how:

– set the sewing machine to the zig zag stitch on the narrowest length, widest width.

– drop the needle to the right side, so that you cannot get the fabric under it.

– take the two sides of the seam you’d like to sew (you can either fold it over for added security, and stich along crease, or you can just put the two raw edges together. For stretchier fabrics it’s a good idea to fold over the edge and stitch the crease)

slide the fabric under the presser foot so that the folded or seam edge sits against the dropped needle

– drop presser foot

– stitch so that one side (right side) falls over the edge of the seam

That’s the main stitch we’ll be using. If you’re worried about your fabric running, put a standard straight stich around every raw edge before working with the fabric or stitching seams, this will only add to strength of rollover stitch

Steps for the mask:

1. Take your tape measureer and measure around your head at the widest point. Note: a stretchy fabric will wrap around your nose, so you don’t have to include it in your measurement. usually the widest part is just above the nose at the eyebrow ridge. Cut this measurement in half.

2. Measure the appx. length of your head by measuring from the top of the head, down the back of your head, to the last cervical vertibrae (just above dead center of shoulder blades) Add a couple inches to this measurement

3. Fold fabric in half good sides in (always do all stitching with mask inside out, so that all rough edges are on inside). Using the crease as an edge, cut a rectangle that is the length of your length-of-head measurement, and a width that is 1/2 your original around-the-head measurement (circumfrance) This will make a tube that basically fits around your head easily. Shouldn’t be too loose, because if it is, it will be saggy, so check it and make sure that the only slack you have in the circumference measurement is as much seam allowance (space to sew) as you’ll need to do your version of the roolover stitch above.

4. stitch the two ends together so you have a head-tube LOL This will need to be durable against the stretch of the fabric so make sure to do multiple stiches; however you will be cutting into it soon, so be sure to backstitch (backward stitch – button on your machine) every couple inches. this will prevent the stitch from unraveling when you cut into it later

5. Lay the tube flat so that the seam is is laying on top of the crease you made when stitching the ends together. Take a beany that fits closely to the shape of your head and lay it so that the top touches the top edges of the open end of your tube. Pin the curve (you can also create your own curve, but the beany idea is best for me). Stitch this curve.

6. put the mask on. The curved stitch you just made should line up with the tops of your ears and create a smooth curve for the top of the head. This prevents you from having a curved seam down the front of your face, though you can do that if you wish. I just like having the smooth face field.

7. now pin the the back seam to hug the curve of your neck. To do this, put on the mask and tug on the backseam so that it hugs your neck (not too tightly, because you’re going to be stiching under the chin too) Pin this curve (you may need some help) Stitch this curve.

8. put mask back on and pin from just beneath the chin, following the curve of your throat, pulling mask tight to get rid of all sag. Stitch.

9. cut off all the extra bits, reinforce the seams with more stitching, and turn right side out.

10. at this point you should have a face-hugging mask. I made it lay smooth to my neck by cutting off the wrinkled excess hanging around my neck. I also stitched a circular collar to it. If you want to do this, here are the steps.

– lay the mask flat so that back seam is to left. Measure from it to chin seam (1/2 neck circumfrance measurement)

– Here’s the math you now have to do: R=C/2pi So double the measurement you took. That = C. Divide that number by 6.28 or 2pi. This gives you the radius of the neck hole. which will be important in a second.

– measure from one shoulder to the other, or the length you want the sides of your collar to come off your neck and cut a square of fabric that fits this measurement. Fold it into quarters. measure away from the center point crease, the R measurement you just found. Create an arch. Cut. In the tradition of snowflakes everywhere, you should have a circular hole that fits exactly around your neck. If you do the same thing for the edges (cutting an arch that exactly connects the two outside edges, you should have a circle with a cricle hole in the center, like a big donut. try it on and see if it fits around your neck and sits how you want it to. It will be seamless and perfect if you’ve done your measurements properly.

– attach this to your mask with the same rollover stitch. If you want to finish the edges of your collar, you can do this with the same rollover stitch. If you want to have a decorative edge, pull the fabric tight as you stitch, and you’ll have a crinkled, wavey edge on you collar.

Put your mask on and prance around like a fool!

Several people have attempted this and sent me pics! Here’s one from Cheryl!

Hi Kristina,

Here are a couple of pictures of my son Vance wearing the mask I made using your directions. He was Slenderman for Halloween last year. At 6′ 3″ he cut an imposing figure.

Cheryl Borgen

8 comments on “How to make a full face mask (blackout mask)

  1. ТВ смотреть онлайн бесплатно…

    […]How to make a full face mask (blackout mask) « The Brain Squirrel Monologues[…]…

  2. Thanks for the great directions. I think I can make this for my 13 y.o. even though I don’t sew very well. He wants to be Slenderman this year.

  3. Awesome! I will be typing this then sewing that! Thanks!

  4. Hi Kristina,

    Here are a couple of pictures of my son Vance wearing the mask I made using your directions. He was Slenderman for Halloween last year. At 6′ 3″ he cut an imposing figure.

    Cheryl Borgen

    • Ok, I’ve added your comment and pic to the entry about the full face mask! Thanks for the cool pic, and what a great costume idea!

  5. Pic malfunctioned, but it’s there now

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